PMMA (Acrylic) vs Polycarbonate (PC)
Both PMMA (acrylic) and polycarbonate (PC) are optically clear thermoplastics that often look identical on a shelf, but they fail in opposite ways. The right pick comes down to whether you prize clarity and scratch resistance or impact and heat resistance.
The verdict
Choose PMMA (acrylic) when you want the clearest, most scratch-resistant, lowest-cost panel and impact isn't critical — signage, displays, lenses, decorative glazing. Choose polycarbonate (PC) when toughness, safety, or heat matter — machine guards, safety glazing, visors, and parts that must flex or survive impact. In short: acrylic for looks and cost, PC for durability and safety.
Side-by-side data
| Property | PMMA (Acrylic) | Polycarbonate (PC) |
|---|---|---|
| Category | Plastic | Plastic |
| Density (g/cm³) | 1.18 | 1.2 |
| Tensile strength (MPa) | 70 | 65 |
| Yield strength (MPa) | 65 | 62 |
| Elongation (%) | 5 | 110 |
| Hardness | M95 | R118 |
| Max service temp (°C) | 80 | 120 |
| Machinability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Corrosion resistance | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Relative cost | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Thermal cond. (W/m·K) | 0.19 | 0.2 |
| Typically used for | Clear, optical & display parts | Impact-resistant & optically clear parts |
Which should you choose?
Choose PMMA (Acrylic) if…
- Optical clarity is paramount — acrylic transmits slightly more light and stays clearer over time without yellowing.
- The surface must resist scratching and you don't want to pay for a hard-coat.
- Cost matters and the application doesn't see hard impacts — signage, retail displays, picture framing, light pipes.
- You're laser-cutting or flame-polishing — acrylic gives clean, glossy, polished edges and solvent-cements into nearly invisible joints.
- It lives outdoors in sun — acrylic is naturally UV-stable and won't yellow for years.
Choose Polycarbonate (PC) if…
- Impact resistance or safety is the deciding factor — PC is roughly an order of magnitude tougher and is effectively unbreakable for most uses.
- The part must bend, flex, or be cold-formed without cracking — machine guards, ducting, formed glazing.
- Service temperature is higher — PC has a markedly higher heat-deflection temperature than acrylic.
- Fire performance matters — PC is inherently more flame-resistant and self-extinguishing grades are common.
- The application is security or PPE — bullet-resistant glazing, riot shields, face shields, helmet visors, guards near moving machinery.
Key differences that matter
- Impact vs. clarity is the core trade-off: PC is far tougher and bends rather than shatters, while acrylic is clearer, harder-surfaced, and more scratch-resistant but brittle.
- Acrylic laser-cuts to a clean polished edge and flame-polishes well; PC tends to discolor or char when laser-cut and scratches easily unless hard-coated.
- PC handles heat and flame better (higher HDT, self-extinguishing grades), making it the choice for hot or fire-sensitive environments.
- Acrylic is usually cheaper and bonds cleanly with solvent cement; PC costs more and is fussier to bond and notch-sensitive to machine.
- On UV: acrylic is naturally UV-stable and stays clear outdoors for years, whereas bare PC yellows and needs a UV-protective coating for long outdoor life.
Need PMMA (Acrylic) or Polycarbonate (PC) parts made?
Use our free tools to finalize your spec, then get a quote from a vetted factory.
Open the Material SelectorGet a Quote →Frequently asked questions
Is polycarbonate stronger than acrylic?
In impact, yes — dramatically. PC absorbs roughly 10x the impact energy and flexes instead of cracking, which is why it's used for bullet-resistant glazing and machine guards. Acrylic is more rigid with a harder surface, but it's brittle and shatters under sharp impact.
Which is cheaper, acrylic or polycarbonate?
Acrylic is generally cheaper per sheet and cheaper to fabricate. If your application doesn't demand high impact or heat resistance, acrylic usually wins on total cost. PC commands a premium for its toughness and temperature performance.
Which scratches more easily?
Bare polycarbonate scratches far more easily than bare acrylic, which has an inherently harder surface. Hard-coated PC grades close much of the gap but add cost — so for scratch-prone, low-impact uses like display panels, acrylic is often the better pick.
Can I bend, machine, and glue both?
PC cold-bends and thermoforms readily without cracking; acrylic is notch-sensitive and prefers heat for forming. Both machine, but acrylic chips and can crack under aggressive feeds or clamping, while PC machines more forgivingly. Acrylic solvent-cements to near-invisible joints; PC needs specific adhesives and is harder to bond.
Which holds up better outdoors and in heat?
Acrylic wins on long-term outdoor clarity — it's naturally UV-stable and resists yellowing. PC wins on heat and fire, with a higher heat-deflection temperature and better flame resistance. For hot or fire-sensitive spots choose PC (UV-coated for outdoor use); for sunny decorative glazing choose acrylic.
Property values are typical/nominal figures for early-stage guidance only and vary by temper, grade, supplier and heat treatment. Confirm critical specifications against a certified datasheet or with an mfgiq engineer before production.